Rolex Submariner

Why We Love It To a watch collector, the words “meters first” hold a kind of reverence that’s seldom matched by any others in the watch world. Matte dial Subs inhabit a middle ground between the early gilt and the later glossy dialed Subs, but meters first dials only occupy a small subset of matte dialed Subs. As the subject of much scholarly dissertation, they inhabit a place of great esteem in the minds of many collectors. What we offer here is a fine example dating from 1970—one of the last generation to boast a meters first dial. The famous dial features a fine, creamy patina throughout. The case and 7836/280 folded link Oyster bracelet benefit from the careful, masterly attention of LA Watch Works. As far as no-date Subs go, truly doesn’t get better than this. The Story Produced from 1962 until 1989, the Reference 5513 is probably the longest-running model of Rolex ever. Following on the heels of the 5512, the 5513 was the second reference of Sub to feature crown guards. However, due to the 5512’s relative rarity on the collector’s circuit, it’s the 5513 that has come to typify vintage no-date Subs in the minds of collectors. Long viewed by collectors as the purist expression of Submariner, the 5513 is the last great no-date Sub. Although Rolex still makes Submariners without dates, the 5513 retains the smaller diameter (39mm) and slimmer proportions that distinguish vintage Submariners from modern. The dial underwent subtle changes throughout the model’s run, from gilt gloss dials in its very early years, to the matte “meters first” dial that many collectors associate with the model.