Rolex Submariner

The Rolex Submariner is the go-to watch for all sorts of people. Divers, both professional and military; international men of mystery; and those who just want a rugged watch they can strap on and not worry about beating up or getting wet. The Submariner—a bulletproof tool watch meant to be worn, and worn hard—is all that and more.  There’s an undeniable desirability around early Submariners that lend them very well to today’s collectors. Particularly, no-date models produced during the 1950s and 1960s hold a lot of appeal and often carry hefty price tags.  However, for many of us there exists a need for a different kind of vintage Sub. One that can be worn every day. One that, though it sacrifices nothing in terms of lineage or utility, is versatile enough to be worn anywhere, and in any environment. For those collectors, there’s the Submariner Reference 1680. The 1680, released in the late 1960s, was the first Submariner to bear a date window. This, despite being viewed as questionable addition by militant no frilles Submariner-lovers, made wearing a tool watch with a suit no longer a faux pas.  This particular 1680 combines a matte dial with the added benefit of gorgeous, puffy intact lume. With a strong case, thick lugs, and crisp bevels it’s not hard to imagine the watch doing what it was intended to do when it was first bought -- and surviving. In fact, if the papers accompanying it are any indication, then this watch—purchased for Messes Underwater Construction in Cape Town, South Africa—was worn by a man who plied his trade underwater. Just how a Submariner was meant to be.