Baume & Mercier ‘Lapis Horseshoe’

Calling all Horse Girls! Yee-Haw! Some watches tell time. Others feel like objects pulled from a jewelry box, or in this case, a jockey's kit— sculptural, slightly mysterious, and entirely their own thing. This Baume & Mercier reference, circa 1990, sits comfortably in that second category. From the outset, it presents itself less as a conventional wristwatch and more as a considered design object,  something shaped as much by material and form as by function. The dial is the clear focal point. Cut from deep blue lapis lazuli, it carries that unmistakable, almost cosmic look, with subtle flecks catching the light like distant stars. It’s intentionally restrained, with minimal markers and 'slender' hands, allowing the stone's natural beauty to take center stage. It’s the kind of dial that changes depending on the light, enhancing the shape of what's to come.  Surrounding it is a softly curved, 'horseshoe' shaped case in 18K white gold. At 25mm X 30mm, the proportions are elegant, but the shape gives it a distinct presence on the wrist. It feels sculptural without being heavy-handed, a unique departure from the usual round case and very much in line with the more expressive design language of the late 20th century. Inside, the manually wound BM 775 caliber keeps things rooted in traditional Swiss watchmaking. A 17-jewel mechanical movement, it offers a reassuring counterpoint to the artistic exterior — simple, reliable, and entirely appropriate for a piece like this. Paired with a blue leather strap, the watch wears with an understated confidence. A little bit of watch, a little bit of a fun object, and a reminder that sometimes the most compelling designs are the ones that take a different path.