Gruen Precision 'Doctor No'

Alongside Hamilton, Bulova, and Elgin, Gruen once stood among the giants of American watchmaking. Its founder, Dietrich Gruen — a young German apprentice with a knack for innovation — immigrated to the United States in 1867 after falling in love with a watchmaker's daughter en route. Two years later, he co-founded the Columbus Watch Company and, by 1874, patented a safety pinion mechanism that protected movements from mainspring breaks — a small but significant leap forward in horological engineering. After being forced out of Columbus Watch Company during the financial turmoil of 1893, Gruen started anew with his son Frederick. Together, they founded D. Gruen & Son, later renamed the Gruen Watch Company, based in Cincinnati. Through resilience and reinvention, Gruen became synonymous with American ingenuity and design flair, producing both daringly modern and timelessly classic pieces. This example from the 1960s belongs firmly in the latter camp — understated, refined, and deeply emblematic of the era. Housed in a 33mm gold plated case with an acrylic crystal, it features a crisp 'stick' dial with 'pencil' hands, powered by a hand-wound Calibre 510 movement. Its minimalist aesthetic channels the same mid-century elegance that defined the Calatrava, but with a distinctly American twist. Adding a dash of cinematic intrigue, the Gruen Precision 510 is also believed to be the very first watch worn by James Bond — appearing briefly on 007's wrist during early production for Dr. No before being swapped out for the now-iconic Rolex Submariner. With its clean lines, golden warmth, and impeccable condition, this Gruen is more than a fine dress watch — it's a slice of watchmaking history with undeniable star power. It even comes with its original box.  Elegant, understated, and effortlessly cool, it wears its license to kill with style.