Patek Philippe Calatrava

Patek Philippe has long been known for its complicated watchmaking, but following the stock market crash of 1929, fewer clients had the means to purchase these high-end timepieces. After securing a controlling interest in the firm, Jean and Charles Henri Stern decided to enlist the help of an English designer named David Penney to create a simple watch that would come in at a lower price point and appeal to the firm’s clientele.  Using the principles espoused by the Bauhaus school and its minimalist, function-first philosophy, Penney conceived the Calatrava, taking its name from the Spanish military order established in the 12th century which had become the symbol of Patek Philippe. Since its debut in 1932, the Calatrava has become a byword for a simple, time-only dress watch — even from brands other than Patek itself. This piece, a Reference 3919J, is the very essence of the 1980s and 1990s Calatrava design. With a svelte 33mm 18k yellow gold case with 6.5mm case thickness, it’s an incredibly easy-wearing piece that spreads out on the wrist, wearing larger than expected. Its case features straight lugs, a sapphire crystal, signed crown, and a hand-finished Clous de Paris textured bezel.   Clean and elegant, its white porcelain dial presents a small seconds display at 6 o’clock, printed Roman indices and a nickel-blackened white gold feuille handset. Beating within is Patek’s manual-winding ultra-thin Calibre 215 movement with five bridge architecture, 18 jewels and 72 hours of power reserve.  Outfitted to a signed black alligator leather strap with an 18k yellow gold pin buckle, this piece is an exceptional example of traditional Calatrava design and the maison’s artisanship.  With its well proportioned case and dial, a simple, timeless design and unobtrusive profile — it’s perhaps the perfect timepiece for someone whose taste runs classic.