Zenith El-Primero

Zenith, while not a household name, is certainly a known name in the world of watches - particularly in collecting circles. The primary reason? The El Primero. The movement was a culmination of a years-long research and development process undertaken by Zenith to develop the world’s first automatic chronograph movement. While other brands had sought to achieve the same feat — including Heuer (in concert with Breitling and Hamilton) and Seiko — Zenith intended to make the El Primero something entirely unique. Instead of taking an automatic module and merely sandwiching it onto the chronograph, Zenith fully integrated the two; moreover, the movement would be a high-beat calibre, offering significant added accuracy. Zenith announced the El Primero on January 10, 1969, at a press conference. This was four years later than Zenith had intended: the brand had begun developing the calibre in 1963, hoping to bring it out for Zenith’s centennial in 1965. Nevertheless, on that winter day in 1969, Zenith proudly displayed a working model of its chronograph. This particular piece, a Reference A386, is likely-the watch that you think of when you hear "vintage El Primero." This MK3 example features a 38mm stainless steel case with an acrylic crystal, a signed crown, and pump pushers. Inside, it has the prototypical white Tritium dial with applied indices and a 'tri-colore' sub register layout with a gray outer minute track and a silver tachymeter scale, and a red center chronograph hand. Fantastic. Powered by the legendary Calibre 3019 PHC El Primero automatic chronograph movement, this piece comes fitted to one of our grey Analog:Shift leather straps with a likely-original signed pin buckle. Excellent examples of these early El Primero don't surface all that often, and there is no saying when another in this condition will surface again. For the collector who desires a chronograph with a fascinating history, breathtaking looks, and proper pedigree, the El Primero absolutely needs to be on your radar.