Patek Philippe Calatrava 'Officers'

Patek Philippe has long been known for its complicated watchmaking, but following the stock market crash of 1929, fewer clients had the means to purchase these high-end timepieces. After securing a controlling interest in the firm, Jean and Charles Henri Stern decided to enlist the help of an English designer named David Penney to create a simple watch that would come in at a lower price point and appeal to the firm’s clientele.  Using the principles espoused by the Bauhaus school and its minimalist, function-first philosophy, Penney conceived the Calatrava, taking its name from the Spanish military order established in the 12th century which had become the symbol of Patek Philippe. Since its debut in 1932, the Calatrava has become a byword for a simple, time-only dress watch — even from brands other than Patek itself. This particular Calatrava, a Reference 5053R 'Officers' watch, features a wonderfully sized, 35mm rose gold case with a sapphire crystal, a stylized rose gold crown, and a polished bezel. Inside, it has a gorgeous, satin silver dial with printed black 'Breguet' indices and a matching 'Breguet' handset and Patek's Calibre 315SC automatic winding movement as seen through the sapphire exhibition caseback — when you open up the wildly cool, hinged 'officer's' caseback.  This watch has it all - versatility, pedigree, wearability, refinement, and an understated appeal. This is what Patek Philippe does better than anyone.