
Accutron
Accutron 505 Legacy 'Alpha'
$799
Sold / unavailable · analogshift.com · Watch
“Are you ready? Because I want you to pay attention. This is the beginning of something.”
So opens Season 7 of AMC's Mad Men, with Sterling Cooper copywriter Freddie Rumsen pitching the new Accutron watch from Bulova. “Accutron,” he intones. “It’s not a timepiece — it’s a conversation piece."
In 1960, this thought-provoking electronic watch offered state-of-the-art technology and design. But in order to fully understand its significance, we need to turn back the proverbial clock for a moment — all the way back to 1875. Nearly 150 years ago, Joseph Bulova established a small jewelry shop in Queens, no doubt unaware of its vast potential. In 1912, the firm opened a movement manufacture in Biel, Switzerland, carting over American mass-production methods. Within a few decades, Bulova had grown into one of the most important watchmaking manufactures in the United States.
By the 1950s, progress was being made within the realm of electronic watches as an alternative to traditional mechanical watchmaking. But it was the Bulova Accutron that brought a degree of hitherto unheard-of accuracy and robustness to the scene in 1960. Its tuning-fork oscillator, beating at a consistent 360 Hz, smoothly swept a seconds hand around the dial, while a dry cell battery provided a constant flow of power via an electromagnetic coil. This technology, developed by Swiss engineer Max Hetzel, was inspired by a tuning-fork clock built in the 19th century by Abraham-Louis Breguet, grandson of perhaps the most important watchmaker in history.
The Accutron — especially in its futuristic, transparent Spaceview guise — quickly found its way onto the wrists of test pilots, astronauts, and everyday people searching for a reliable, handsome timepiece. And though its movement technology would later be eclipsed by more affordable quartz-powered systems, its legacy has endured into the 21st century. In 2020, Accutron was spun off from Bulova into its own distinct entity, charged with the caretaking of a legendary development that has come to define horological ingenuity in the 20th century.
Beyond the debut of their brand-new Spaceview 2020 and Accutron DNA models, Accutron also reached into their back catalog of magical mid-century designs, and thus, the Legacy Collection was born. The Accutron Legacy Collection is a modern re-imagining of the brand's most memorable pieces from the 1960s and 1970s. Using mechanical movements as a nod to their roots in traditional watchmaking, these timepieces were directly inspired by their original briefs and have captured the hearts of enthusiasts today. The blend of mid-century styling and mechanical internals perfectly represents the ebb and flow of technology and design.
Drawing inspiration from the George Nelson coconut chair, the Accutron 505 featured a three-point case silhouette, which, like Nelson's work of art, resembled a cut-out of a coconut shell. Further, the 505 was Accutron's inaugural case design, hence its nickname, the 'Alpha'.
This new Accutron 505 Legacy Limited Edition (600 pieces) is a modern interpretation of the original 505 and features a 33mm stainless steel 'alpha' case with stylized lugs, a domed sapphire crystal, and a 'tuning fork' signed crown positioned at 4 o'clock. All Legacy Collection models were produced as limited editions and feature an individually numbered caseback with a sapphire display aperture that provides a glimpse of their mechanical underpinnings.
Distinguishable by its signature crosshairs on the dial, the original 505 was popular amongst medical professionals for its ability to quickly tell time by splitting the dial into 15-second increments. Adorned with applied indices, the 'tuning fork' logo at 12 o'clock, and a matching dauphine handset set against a sunburst silver-white dial, this elegant dial is the perfect dancing partner for its eye-catching case.
Outfitted with a signed black lizard leather strap and a stainless steel deployant buckle, this mint, unworn piece i
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