Rolex Submariner

When you change a classic design like the Rolex Submariner, you risk raising the ire of Submariner purists.  The Reference 1680, released in 1966, deviated from previous iterations of the Submariner--like the beloved ref. 5513--by including a date window. This change was remarkably divisive because, according the diehards, if you need a date on your dive watch, you're kind of screwed. Despite the divided opinions on the ref. 1680, from a non-purist's standpoint, it ticks all the boxes for a tool watch. A sturdy stainless steel case? Check. Robust movement that is dust-proof, shock-proof, and waterproof? Check, check, and check. The ref. 16800, successor to the ref. 1680, is viewed as a transitional model because it's the first Submariner reference to have a sapphire crystal. Another slightly polarizing change is the inclusion of white gold surrounds to the hour plots. It was also fitted with a uni-directional ratcheting bezel, a glossy (rather than matte) dial, the Rolex Cal. 3085 movement, and--most infuriating of all to the diehard Submariner purist--a quick-set date function. But we're here to argue the case for the much-maligned Submariner Ref. 16800, a transitional model that gets no love even though we think it should. Whether or not you actually need a date on your dive watch is one thing, but utility aside, that--and other innovations--launched the ref. 16800 into the luxury realm. Now, the Sub can transition seamlessly from casual wear to the board room with only a change of clothes. Even though James Bond wore a Sub with a suit, that was then, and this is now. These changes dressed up the Submariner and made wearing a Sub with business attire more permissible for those without a license to kill.  Our Submariner is a catch. Complete with its original case back sticker, and coming on the solid-end link Ref. 93150 Rolex Oyster bracelet with folding clasp, this 16800 is the perfect Rolex for a collector who wants a modern watch with vintage looks. The tritium on the dial has faded to an even yellow hue, giving it that weathered look of a tool watch that's been places and bears witness to the watch's incredible history.