Patek Philippe Neptune Moonphase

Nobody does complicated watchmaking quite like Patek Philippe.  From chronographs to calendars to minute repeaters, Patek has always led the pack. In fact, the maison was the very first to release a serially produced perpetual calendar-chronograph, and it invented the annual calendar. Quite the pedigree! This particular complicated piece, a Neptune Reference 5085/1, stands out for its somewhat oddball combination of attributes that only Patek could combine into a cohesive whole: Housed within a 37mm stainless steel case with a beautiful, standout integrated bracelet, a sapphire crystal, a signed crown, and a polished bezel, it features a satin black Tritium dial with printed ‘Arabic’ indices, an outer ‘railroad’ minute track with block-shaped lume plots, and a matching ‘stick’ handset. If you’re a fan of military watches — especially those from the 1940s through the 1960s — you’ll recognize these dial attributes right away! However, Patek has combined these distinctly utilitarian design features with a complicated movement. Their automatic winding Calibre 240 PS IRM C LU — which incorporates a micro-rotor and Geneva striping and is visible via a sapphire caseback — powers a running seconds totalizer at 4 o’clock, a combination moon phase and date display at 7 o’clock, and a power reserve indicator between 10 and 11 o’clock. While it's two major steel siblings, the Nautilus and Aquanaut, have ascended to heights that remain untouchable for most, this overlooked sibling remains largely overlooked. Combined with its fantastic integrated bracelet design, this unusual, complicated neo-vintage Patek is perfect for the discerning collector who wants a special piece that will nevertheless fly under the radar. If that someone is you, nab this one before someone else has the same idea!