
Rolex
Rolex Datejust Turn-O-Graph 'Thunderbird'
$15,900
Sold / unavailable · analogshift.com · Watch
While there are many vintage watches that have bonafide aviation pedigrees, very few are associated with an elite flying unit like the Thunderbirds.
Except this watch: the Rolex Datejust Turn-O-Graph.
Launched the year before the Submariner, the Turn-O-Graph was, in many ways, the manufacture’s first tool watch. Rolex intended for it to be a substitute for a chronograph, which—as a wristwatch with a complication—was generally more expensive than a time-only watch. In lieu of a chronograph, Rolex intended for the bezel (which Rolex called the "time-recording rim") to be used to record elapsed time; by aligning the arrow of the turning bezel with the minute hand, the wearer could quickly keep a count of the passing minutes.
Understandably, Rolex marketed the Turn-O-Graph to business travelers and pilots. At the time the Turn-O-Graph was released, the GMT Master—that epitome of a pilot’s watch—was still a few years from existence. Therefore, in lieu of a dedicated pilot’s watch, many pilots turned to the Turn-O-Graph as a solid alternative.
In fact, the next reference of Turn-O-Graph would be worn by the Thunderbirds themselves.
In 1956, Rolex released a new reference of Turn-O-Graph: Reference 6609. This model would differ drastically from its predecessors. Unlike the previous models, which but for the bezel would be virtually indistinguishable from the Submariner, the Reference 6609 was built around the 36mm Oyster case used in the Rolex Datejust.
Rolex would offer this new reference of Turn-O-Graph to the Thunderbirds, a squadron of the U.S. Air Force known for acrobatic demonstrations and experimental flying techniques. Formed following the Second World War, the Thunderbirds were unquestionably one of the most elite units in the Air Force. Its pilots were the best of the best, and their planes—the F100 Super Sabre, the first fighter used by the United States that was capable of supersonic speed—were the creme de la creme.
For the pilots of such an elite unit, they needed an elite watch. Accordingly, they were equipped with solid 18K gold versions of the Reference 6609. Rolex touted that fact in an ad campaign, showing the new Rolex 'Thunderbird'—complete with the Thunderbirds’ logo—on a blue background while F100s soared above.
So iconic was this association that Rolex used the name Thunderbird to designate all subsequent Turn-O-Graphs sold on the American market; such is the case with the Reference that followed it, the 1625.
While solid yellow gold Rolexes can be polarizing, there’s something about the Reference 1625 that speaks anachronistically to the sporty elegance that’s inherent to the model. Not a bulky 39mm model like a Submariner or GMT-Master or as elegant and clean as a Day-Date, the 1625/8 Thunderbird in 18K has a more rarified air than a mere tool watch.
This particular example is in excellent condition throughout, having been spared the common over-polishing dial edge wear common to the model. And fitted to a matching solid gold Jubilee bracelet like, it adds some serious gusto to any get up - even an olive-drab flight suit.
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