Universal Geneve Tri-Compax

In 1944, a watch was released at the Basel Fair that would forever change the watch industry: the Universal Genève Tri-Compax. Switzerland’s neutrality during the Second World War meant that the country could continue to export watches. Accordingly, watches made by Universal Genève found their way to the wrists of Axis and Allies alike. Hermann Göring, the second-most powerful man in Nazi Germany, owned one, as did Harry S Truman. Though the later 1960s models of Tri-Compax perhaps command the most collector attention out of all of Universal Genève’s chronograph offerings, there’s a quiet, dignified beauty about models from the 1940s and 1950s. This particular piece, a Reference 52202 dating from the 1940s, is simply elegant. While the Tri-Compaxes of the 1960s are known for their sporty, twisted-lug steel cases, this one is clad in 14K yellow gold and is powered by UG Calibre 481 movement. The soft hue of the case brings out the warm glow of the dial, rich with a creamy patina and featuring stunning Art Deco hour markers. The tri-compax pioneered the complicated chronograph that dominated midcentury watchmaking and has remained a fixture of the industry to this day. This particular example was also overhauled in 2020, with a freshly operating, serviced movement ready for a new wrist. With looks like this, there’s no question why the Tri-Compax was—and continues to be—such a universal favorite.